I've slipped into a lot of roles in my professional life - educator, photographer, designer, stylist, model. The list goes on. By now I know what I like and what I don't, and you might be surprised to know that modelling is one of my least favourite gigs because of how difficult it is. I know you'd most likely be surprised because of the views on models and modelling that I hear frequently.
"Models don't really do anything for a job."
"You've got the easy job of just sitting there."
"Modelling seems like really easy money."
You're probably thinking these are statements I've heard fromΒ men who want to mansplain my life to me, or a Karen that's projecting herΒ life choices onto me. But they're actually all things I've heard from members of the fashion industry - most notably, the designers and stylists that dress me.
I have been so taken aback to hear people who benefit from models speak so poorly of them, and it reminded me of how Prada's relationships with models has changed so drastically, impacting the entire industry, and of course upholding the toxic beauty standards that we commonly see in high-profile modelling spaces. I want to talk a bit about my experiences as a model, and at how some big brands' developing representation and treatment of models has impacted the public's view of the industry.
MY EXPERIENCE
The most exploited I've ever felt in a job has definitely been in my modelling - and I've worked in childcare and hospitality, so that's saying a lot. My modelling began in Newcastle, doing easy, fun and social Time For Print (TFP) for a local brand owner of ChinChen St and Bonvivier. I gained so much knowledge from our work, and always felt really appreciated and respected in my own fashion. Moving to Naarm, I was naive to say the least that it would be the same. I started getting forwarded to RMIT students a lot for more TFP work, always being appealed to with "it will help build your portfolio." I enjoyed building it in Newcastle so for years took these gigs. But as time went on I realised I was more often than not expected to do these gigs to build my credibilty/portfolio. Not only that, but I generally felt in the air that I was not really part of the team - just a silly girl who looks pretty for a living (except that I wasn't making a living). I started getting more and more Instagram messages saying someone had assured them I do free work. I began telling them I couldn't do unpaid work as I run a business, to which the most common response was. . . nothing. I don't know if it's ever anger or just shock, but I feel assured they aren't expecting me to value my time. Who has started this culture of believing that's a standard?
The toll modelling takes on my body is also a factor in why I hate it as a job so much. People think modelling is looking a certain way. That's because the industry has told you that's what modelling is. But it's actually 90% taking directions: and I don't get offered jobs a lot because I'm bad at it. Whatever you need done, I'll do. As as a designer and stylist I understand how it feels to see an idea be fully realised - it's always a fulfilling moment. But between the travelling and my already having pain issues from a condition, it generally isn't worth the income. When I see Bella Hadid go from Fashion Week to being on an IV drip for her Lyme's Disease to shooting a new campaign, I can't help but consider how someone in her position could never be named model of the year without their family's wealth (and a 0 dress size. . .).
PRADA
Balenciaga isn't even close to the first brand that has intentionally blurred the lines between child and adult in their models and campaigns. In 2011, Prada receivedΒ one of their first major lot of criticism for their use of minors in a campaign. A promotional video featuring models 13-18 was deemed far too sensual for their ages by most watchers - they were seen running their hands up their legs, across their chests and down their torso in slow movement, so you'd be hard-pressed to find someone not offended.
So you'd think a few years later they wouldn't rock the boat by having similar aged children walk runways - but this is Prada we're talking about. They sparked major discussing by having then 14-year-old Roos Abel exclusively sign to walk their runways. She wasn't the last of that age to walk Prada's catwalks, and unfortunately I doubt they'll be the last.
Prada's use of young, thin, clearly-underage models has been cited as a major influence in the devaluation of models and the overzealous use of minors in the industry. By using these young models with no curves and no footing in the industry, they can have shapeless, juvenile canvases who don't expect to be paid as much as experienced adults, and they are only kept on for 1-2 seasons until they develop out of the underage look. Not only has the consistent use of young models influenced other brands to discard models at a quicker pace, but it has only prolonged the damage that the liked of Kate Moss have done to the beauty standards of an entire industry.
VICTORIA'S SECRET
All you need to deduce that Victoria's Secret might not value their models is eyes. Their body types aren't often too far off the 13-year-olds I wrote about above. And this is no mistake. In 2015 they were forced to apologise publicly for saying that that there was no interest in employing models of different shapes and sizes, and that they wouldn't ever hire transgender models as it would "take away from the fantasy". And it hasn't gotten much better - nowadays, Barbara Palvin has been labelled as the brand's first "plus-sized model". She's a size 8. . .Β
Did you know models in the 90s used to have clothing adjusted to their changing shape for runway shows? Do you look back and see how important RuPaul was to building the bridge between the fashion industry and the modern queer space?
GUCCI
Gucci has been regularly praised for the way they work with models currently.Β Most notably, Gucci has a strict policy about never hiring models under the age of 18. While some may argue this is taking opportunities away from young overachievers, most agree that the companies that engage in this sort of culture are exploiting young people. Although this did come after some backlash over the use of "unhealthily thin" models in 2016, it's good to still see real, practical steps being taken to close the gap between ethics and reality.
In 2022 we're finally starting to see some changes in some big brands, with them either accepting that they have a social responsibilty or simply bowing to pressure. Either way, it's a breath of fresh air to see Prada employing transgender and non-binary models, Winnie Harlow's pigmentation not being covered up, and disabled models at Melbourne Fashion Week each year.
What do you think of models and modelling? Do you think the industry is ready to move into a new era? ππΌππΌππΌ